"The Arabs called it the city of cheese. With graviera like this, mizithra like this, athotyros like this — how could they not?
Years passed, and Chania — for that is the city — became famous for its lighthouse and for Venizelos.
I never met Iordanis, but his name always told me he was from Asia Minor. I guessed Smyrna, until I learned he was from Constantinople.
So I concluded that this teasing pastry had come from Constantinople through Iordanis. Nowhere else in Greece will you taste a pastry quite like it.
Except Iordanis was a shoemaker, not a baker. Another mystery, until I was told that the man who taught him was his father-in-law, also from Constantinople.
The truth surfaced by chance. A Muslim of the town, at the population exchange, sold his oven to Iordanis’s father-in-law — and with it, the duty to teach the new owner the craft of the pastry.
Conclusion: the famous pastry known as the bougatsa of Iordanis belongs here, through and through."
Theokritos · Chaniotiki Eleftherotypia, 31 January 1992.